Create a Project

Draw a mushroom with a domed cap, a short stem and a curved grass strip at the bottom. Keep the cap one or two pieces so beginners can cut it.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the white cap spots as small circles from scrap and foil them separately, then tack them on top of the red cap before soldering the seams.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a jump ring at the top of the cap, clean off the flux and add black patina if you want darker solder lines.

Draw the body, two wing pieces, a tail and a separate flower. Keep the beak as a thin line of solder or wire rather than a glass piece.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

For the beak, solder a short length of tinned copper wire to the head and coat it with solder to thicken it.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Hang the ring from the back so the bird tilts forward slightly, wash and dry it.

Start with a panel lamp of 6 or 8 flat sides from a printed pattern rather than a curved dome; it needs no mould.

Cut the pieces from the pattern and number each one so it goes back in its place.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit tightly.

Foil every piece and burnish it flat.

Fit a vase cap or lamp ring at the top and solder it in firmly, because it carries the whole weight of the shade.

Tack the panels together, then solder the outside seams and the inside seams.

Wash, add patina, then check the shade sits evenly on the lamp base and the bulb never touches the glass.

Draw the design inside a square border, keeping every line able to run from edge to edge. Leave room for a zinc or U-came frame.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Lay a border of zinc or U-came, nail the pieces in tight with horseshoe nails, then solder the frame corners as well as the seams.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Solder two hanging rings into the frame corners, clean both sides and add patina.

Draw a crescent moon from two circles and add one or two small stars hanging below it.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

The inside curve of the crescent is hard to cut: score it in two or three shallow curves and tap it apart, or grind the curve in.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Hang the stars with short jump rings from the bottom of the moon, then clean and dry everything.

Draw a simple bulb shape with a small rectangle cap on top, or a round bauble split into three bands.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Make the cap from a dark or metallic glass, or build it up with a few layers of solder for a metal look.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a hanging loop, wash and dry, then tie on a ribbon.

Plan five to seven long strips or shapes and where each hanging hole will go.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Fire a small loop of high-temperature fusing wire between two layers at the top of each piece so you have a strong hanger.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Hang the pieces at different lengths from a ring or a piece of driftwood with fishing line so they touch lightly.

Cut small squares or ovals: one clear cap, one coloured base and a strip of dichroic or a few dots of frit in between.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Keep pendants at two layers so they round off without spreading too thin.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

After firing, glue a bail on the back with a two-part jewellery adhesive and let it cure fully.

Draw a small songbird side-on: a round body, head, one wing, a tail and a branch to perch on.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the beak as a tiny triangle from a darker glass, or build it from solder, and grind it with very light pressure.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add an eye with a solder dot, a ring at the top of the back so it hangs level, then clean and dry.

Plan the design for two layers on a square blank: a clear base and pieces of colour on top.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

After the flat fuse, place it on a slumping mould coated with shelf primer and fire again with a slump schedule.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Check the plate is level on a table and the edges are smooth; grind any sharp point and re-fire if needed.

Cut four matching side panels and one square base, or add a simple pattern to each side.

Cut each panel to exact size and check opposite sides against each other so they match.

Grind every edge so the panels meet cleanly at the corners.

Foil all the edges and burnish them flat.

Leave the top open, and stand a tea-light in a small glass cup inside so the flame never touches solder.

Stand the sides around the base, tape them square, tack the corners, then solder every inside and outside seam.

Add a handle made of thick tinned copper wire soldered to two opposite corners, then wash and add patina.

Draw a five-point star split down the middle of each arm so you get light and dark sides that look 3D.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Grind the sharp star points carefully; hold the tip flat on the grinder bit so it does not snap.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Hang it from one point with a ring, clean and dry.

Draw a round sun centre with eight to twelve rays around it. Straight rays are easiest for a first sun.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Fit and tack the rays around the centre one pair at a time so the circle stays round.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Hang with one ring at the top, clean and add copper patina for a warm look.

Draw a square split only with straight lines into triangles and rectangles.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Since every cut is straight, use a ruler or cutting square on each score to keep the pieces true.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Add a frame of U-came or a bead of solder around the edge and two hanging rings.

Draw a small shape with a straight bottom edge that fits a plug-in night-light clip.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind the edges so the pieces fit, keeping the bottom edge straight.

Foil each piece and burnish it flat.

Use your leftover pieces: arrange them like a puzzle on the pattern before you cut so you use as much scrap as possible.

Flux and solder the seams on both sides.

Solder the clip to the back at the bottom edge, clean and fit it to the night-light base.

Choose four flat coaster bases (cork-backed tile or wood) and sketch a simple design on each.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Keep the top surface flat: lay pieces with the smooth side up and avoid raised edges so cups do not wobble.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Let the grout cure as its label directs, then seal it and add felt pads underneath.

Plan a box with four walls, a base and a sloping or pointed roof. Make paper models of each panel first.

Cut each panel to exact size and check opposite sides against each other so they match.

Grind every edge so the panels meet cleanly at the corners.

Foil all the edges and burnish them flat.

Make one roof panel a hinged lid by soldering a small brass tube hinge, so you can water the plants.

Stand the sides around the base, tape them square, tack the corners, then solder every inside and outside seam.

Seal the base seams well with solder, clean thoroughly and add patina.

Cut three long mirror strips of the same width for the inside, and decorated glass for the outside tube.

Cut each panel to exact size and check opposite sides against each other so they match.

Grind every edge so the panels meet cleanly at the corners.

Foil all the edges and burnish them flat.

Tape the mirrors into a triangle with the shiny sides inside, then foil and build the outer glass around them.

Stand the sides around the base, tape them square, tack the corners, then solder every inside and outside seam.

Fit a cap with a round eyehole at one end and an object chamber with beads at the other.

Draw your design on paper and tape it behind a clean clear glass pane.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Glue each piece with clear silicone or clear mosaic adhesive so light still shines through.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Grout with an unsanded grout, wipe and buff, then hang it in a sunny window.

Pick a clean jar or bottle and plan a band or swirl of colour around it.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Work on a curved surface by gluing small pieces with clear silicone and letting each side dry before turning the jar.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Grout, wipe and buff, then drop a solar or battery LED light inside.

Mask the mirror with tape and draw your border design on the flat frame.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Glue pieces along the mirror edge first so you get a clean straight line, then fill outward.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Grout, peel off the tape, buff and fix a strong hanger to the back.

Draw the design the size of your mould on paper.

Use the reverse method: stick the pieces face down on clear contact paper in the mould, then pour concrete over them.

Let the stone cure as the concrete bag directs before you lift it out, then seal it for outdoor use.

Draw a rainbow of six or seven arches with a cloud at each end.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the arches from the outside in and test-fit each band before cutting the next, so curves stay even.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add rings at both cloud ends to hang it level, clean and dry.

Sort your scraps by colour and grind each piece smooth, without a pattern.

Foil each piece and add a small jump ring, then hang them at different lengths from a ring or branch.

Balance the mobile by moving pieces until it hangs level.

Draw two or three flowers on stems with leaves and a simple background.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut the flowers and leaves first, then the background pieces between them, checking fit often.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame with zinc or U-came, add hanging rings and patina.

Cut four 4 in squares of clear or black glass as the base.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Add pieces, stringers or frit on top, keeping each coaster about 1/4 in thick.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

After firing, grind any sharp corner and add cork or felt pads underneath.

Draw a circle split into a sun half and a moon half with a face line down the middle.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut the two halves in very different colours so the split reads at a glance.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame the circle with U-came or a wide solder bead, then add a ring at the top.

Draw a heart split down the middle or into a few curved sections.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

The dip at the top of the heart is an inside curve: cut it in two scores or grind it out.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring at the dip, clean and tie on a ribbon.

Draw a body and four wing pieces, mirrored left and right.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut each wing and flip the template to cut its matching wing, so both sides are the same.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add antennae from tinned wire, a ring at the top, clean and dry.

Draw a six-arm snowflake with small diamonds on each arm.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Assemble around a small central hexagon, tacking one arm at a time to keep the angles even.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring, clean and add silver-look patina or leave bright.

Draw a triangle tree split into a few bands, with a trunk and a star.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut all the bands on straight lines, which keeps it beginner-friendly.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring at the star, clean and hang on the tree or a window.

Draw a lily with long petals, a stem and leaves inside a rectangle.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut the long petals in one smooth score each; grind gently so they do not snap.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame, add rings and patina.

Draw a small mushroom cap, 2 to 3 in wide, with a flat bottom edge.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Solder a stiff stainless or copper rod to the back of the cap and run solder along its full length on the cap.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Clean well and seal the solder so it lasts in damp soil.

Cut a simple shape such as a circle, star or tree from two layers.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Fire a loop of fusing wire between the layers so it can hang.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Tie on a ribbon after it cools.

Draw a sitting cat from behind: round head, pointed ears and a curling tail.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Make the ears and tail separate pieces so you avoid deep inside cuts.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add eyes with small round pieces or solder dots, then a ring and clean.

Wash the bottle and remove the label and glue.

Lay it on its side on a prepared shelf and fire with a bottle slump schedule until it flattens.

Cool fully, then use it as a dish or cheese board.

Draw small leaf shapes you can cut many of, about 1 in each.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Bend each leaf up slightly as you tack it to a centre, building the rosette row by row.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Set it in a small pot with pebbles, clean and add patina.

Draw an octagon with a centre shape and eight matching segments around it.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut all eight segments from one template so they match.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame with U-came and add rings.

Draw your outline on the board and paint the background.

Spread crushed glass inside the outline and pour clear art resin over it.

Let the resin cure as its label directs in a dust-free room.

Draw a fish with a body, a tail fin and two small fins.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use a single bright glass for the body and a streaky glass for the fins.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add an eye with a solder dot or bead, a ring at the top and clean.

Draw a domed bell, split into a few curved bands.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Make tentacles from twisted tinned wire with small glass beads soldered on.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Hang so the tentacles move, clean and dry.

Draw a round brown centre and twelve to sixteen petals.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut petals from one template and fit them around the centre two at a time.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring, clean and add copper patina.

Draw two or three flowing wave lines across a rectangle.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Score each wave in one smooth gentle curve; long, gentle curves break cleanly.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame or bead the edge and add rings.

Draw a round body, head, comb, beak and tail feathers.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Make the comb and wattle in red as separate small pieces and grind them gently.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add an eye, a ring and clean.

Cut a base, four sides and a lid, with a decorated piece for the top.

Cut each panel to exact size and check opposite sides against each other so they match.

Grind every edge so the panels meet cleanly at the corners.

Foil all the edges and burnish them flat.

Solder a small brass hinge to the lid and back so it opens.

Stand the sides around the base, tape them square, tack the corners, then solder every inside and outside seam.

Line the inside with felt after cleaning.

Draw an owl with a round face, two large eyes, wings and a branch.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the eyes as round pieces or use glass nuggets, and fit the face around them.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring, clean and patina.

Draw a pumpkin split into curved ribs with a green stem.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the ribs from the outside in so each curve matches the next.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring at the stem, clean and dry.

Draw a rose head with layered petals, a stem and two leaves.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the inner petals first and build outward, checking fit after each one.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring, clean and patina.

Draw Santa or a snowman from simple round shapes: head, hat and body.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use white opal for beard or snow and solder dots for eyes and buttons.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Cut small petal shapes, five or six per flower.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Bend each petal up as you tack it to a solder centre, then solder each flower onto a stiff wire stem.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Set the flowers in a small pot or vase, clean and add patina.

Draw a bee with a striped body and two wings, or a few hexagon honeycomb cells.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

For honeycomb, cut all hexagons from one template so the cells line up.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring, clean and dry.

Draw a circle split into rings and segments.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut the circle edges by scoring several short curves and grinding to the line.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame with U-came and add a ring.

Draw a raven or magpie side-on with body, wing, tail and beak.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use black iridescent glass so the feathers shine blue or green.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a large diamond split into four or nine smaller diamonds.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut on straight lines with a ruler so the points meet exactly.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring at the top point and clean.

Cut petals and a centre from coloured glass on a clear base.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Stack to two layers and fire; for curled petals, slump the fused flower over a small mould.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Glue to a stake or add a hanging loop.

Cut two identical shapes and a fibre paper insert that leaves an opening at the top.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Fire the two layers with the fibre paper between them to make the pocket.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Wash out the fibre paper and add a hanging hole or stand.

Draw a hexagon with a centre hexagon and six pieces around it.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut all outer pieces from one template so the angles match.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Bead or frame the edge and add a ring.

Draw a bird or flower outline on a wooden board.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Fill the main shape first with careful pieces, then the background with larger pieces.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Grout, buff and fix a hanger to the back.

Remove the glass and back, and plan a border design on the frame.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Glue the inner edge first for a neat line, then fill outward.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Grout, buff and put the photo back in.

Draw a tulip with three petals, a stem and two leaves.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the cup of the tulip in two curves and grind the dip between petals.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a cross split into a centre square and four arms.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut on straight lines and keep the arms exactly the same width.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a round crystal ball on a small stand with a flat bottom edge.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind the edges so the pieces fit, keeping the bottom edge straight.

Foil each piece and burnish it flat.

Cut the ball as one round piece or a few curves and fit the stand below.

Flux and solder the seams on both sides.

Solder the night-light clip to the back and fit to the base.

Draw a fox head or a sitting fox with pointed ears and a bushy tail.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use orange for the fur and white for the chest and tail tip as separate pieces.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a symmetrical design of fans, arcs and straight lines.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut mirrored pieces from the same template, flipped, so both sides match.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame, add rings and black patina.

Draw a long thin body and four narrow wings.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the narrow wings slowly; grind gently with light pressure so they do not snap.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a leaf split along its centre vein, with a few side veins.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use solder lines as the veins so the pieces can stay simple.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a peacock feather: a long shaft with an eye of three oval layers.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the eye ovals from the inside out and fit each ring around the last.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Start with a 6-panel flat shade from a pattern rather than a curved one.

Cut the pieces from the pattern and number each one so it goes back in its place.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit tightly.

Foil every piece and burnish it flat.

Solder a vase cap at the top for the fitting and reinforce the top seams.

Tack the panels together, then solder the outside seams and the inside seams.

Clean, patina and hang with proper lighting hardware.

Draw three or four tall birch trunks across a sky background.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Use white streaky glass for the trunks and add black solder dashes for the bark marks.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame and add rings.

Draw a daffodil, crocus or snowdrop with a stem and leaf.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the trumpet or cup as a separate piece so it stands out.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a lotus with layered pointed petals on a water line.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the centre petals first and build outward.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw an arched window with small panes and a round rose window at the top.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Use your scraps for the small panes and cut the arch with several short curves.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame and add rings.

Draw an eight-point or Moravian-style star from diamonds.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Fit the diamonds around a centre and tack them one at a time to keep angles even.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring or a tree-topper clip and clean.

Cut small hearts from coloured glass and clear caps.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Stack two layers with frit or stringers and fire.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Add a bail or hanging loop.

Draw five to seven circles in a row from new to full moon.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut each moon as two pieces, light and dark, joined to show its phase.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Link the moons with jump rings and add a ring at the top.

Seal the outside of the pot and draw a band or pattern.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Glue pieces around the curve with a thick adhesive so they do not slide.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Grout, buff and seal so water does not stain it.

Draw a parrot on a branch with head, beak, body, wing and long tail.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use bright solid colours for each part and cut the hooked beak as a small piece.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a polar bear or another favourite animal from simple shapes.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use white opal for the bear and add a blue ice piece below.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Arrange ready-made bevels into a star or diamond cluster on paper.

No cutting needed: foil the bevels and solder them together where they touch.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a paw print: one large pad and four toe pads, or a dog head.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Join the toe pads to the main pad with small connector pieces or wire.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Cut a border frame shape with an opening in the middle.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Decorate the border with pieces and frit, keeping it two layers thick.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

After firing, glue a stand or clips on the back to hold the photo.

Cut a front design panel plus three sides, a base and a top.

Cut each panel to exact size and check opposite sides against each other so they match.

Grind every edge so the panels meet cleanly at the corners.

Foil all the edges and burnish them flat.

Leave a hole at the back for an LED string light cable.

Stand the sides around the base, tape them square, tack the corners, then solder every inside and outside seam.

Clean, patina and fit the LED lights inside.

Draw a yellow centre and eight to twelve white petals.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut petals from one template and fit them evenly around the centre.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Cut a cap and a stem from coloured glass, with white frit dots for spots.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Fire flat with a stake loop or glue to a stake after firing.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Push into a plant pot.

Draw a moth with large front wings, long tails on the back wings and a body.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the long tails slowly and grind gently.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add antennae from wire, a ring and clean.

Draw a border of leaves or shapes around a mirror piece.

Cut each panel to exact size and check opposite sides against each other so they match.

Grind every edge so the panels meet cleanly at the corners.

Foil all the edges and burnish them flat.

Foil the mirror edge and the border pieces and solder them together.

Stand the sides around the base, tape them square, tack the corners, then solder every inside and outside seam.

Add a strong hanging ring at the top and clean.

Draw a half sun at the bottom centre with rays fanning out across the panel.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut the rays from long gentle curves and frame with zinc for strength.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Add rings and patina, and measure the space above your door first.

Draw an angel with a round head, a gown and two wings.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use solder for the halo or a ring of wire above the head.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Cut two matching decorated panels and two flat bases.

Cut each panel to exact size and check opposite sides against each other so they match.

Grind every edge so the panels meet cleanly at the corners.

Foil all the edges and burnish them flat.

Solder each panel upright to a base and fill the base with weight if needed.

Stand the sides around the base, tape them square, tack the corners, then solder every inside and outside seam.

Clean and patina.

Choose a clear ornament base and plan a band of colour.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Glue small broken glass pieces around the curve.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Grout lightly or leave as is, and tie on a ribbon.

Draw a cardinal with a crest, black face mask, wing and tail.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the black mask as a separate small piece around the beak.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw an egg shape split by a few zig-zag or curved bands.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the bands in pastel colours.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Draw a sitting frog with big eyes and legs.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Use round nuggets for the eyes.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Cut a round blue base and smaller circles of white, light blue and black.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Stack the circles on the base in order and fire.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Add a hanging loop or bail.

Cut two layers in a spoon-rest shape.

Cut the glass pieces, using glass of only one COE (for example all 90 or all 96).

Wash and dry every piece so no marker or fingerprints get fused in.

Arrange the design on kiln paper or a primed shelf.

Fuse flat, then slump over a small mould to make a shallow dip.

Fire with your glass maker's fuse schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Wash and use beside the stove, away from direct flame.

Draw a manta ray from above with wide wings and a tail.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the wings on long gentle curves.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Clean and dry the bowl and plan a design.

Nip the glass into small pieces with mosaic nippers inside a box or bag, wearing safety glasses.

Glue the pieces down with a suitable adhesive, leaving about a 1/16 in gap, and let it dry as the label directs.

Use outdoor-rated thinset and grout, and keep the pieces flat and smooth.

Press grout into the gaps with a gloved hand, wipe off the extra with a damp sponge and buff the haze with a dry cloth.

Cure fully and seal before adding water.

Draw a mountain range with a sun or moon above.

Trace and cut each piece, scoring once and breaking with running pliers.

Grind every edge so the pieces fit the pattern with a small, even gap.

Foil every piece with copper foil and burnish it flat.

Cut the peaks on straight lines and the sky in wide bands.

Pin the pieces to a board, flux and solder every seam, then flip the panel and solder the back.

Frame and add rings.

Draw a seahorse with a curled tail, body and fin.

Trace each template onto clean glass with a fine marker. Score once with steady pressure and break along the score with running pliers.

Grind every edge smooth so the pieces sit on the pattern with a small, even gap.

Wrap each edge in copper foil centred on the glass and press it flat with a burnisher.

Cut the curled tail in two or three pieces rather than one tight curve.

Brush on flux, tack the pieces together, then run a smooth solder bead over every seam on both sides.

Add a ring and clean.

Place small glass scraps in a coaster mould.

Pour a fine concrete mix or resin over them and let it set.

Sand the top smooth to show the glass, then seal.

Pick one or two 104 COE colours and decide on a round or slightly flat bead.

Dip the mandrel in bead release and let it dry fully as its label directs.

Light the torch, warm the rod end slowly in the edge of the flame, then move it into the hotter part until it glows and softens.

Wear didymium glasses the whole time you work in the flame, and keep turning the mandrel so the glass stays even.

Wind the melted glass evenly around the mandrel while you keep turning it, so the bead stays round and centred.

When the shape is done, take it out of the flame slowly and put it straight into a fibre blanket or kiln to cool.

Let the bead cool slowly in a fibre blanket or kiln, then soak the mandrel and slide the bead off.

Plan a base colour and a contrasting dot colour, with 4 to 8 dots around the bead.

Dip the mandrel in bead release and let it dry fully as its label directs.

Light the torch, warm the rod end slowly in the edge of the flame, then move it into the hotter part until it glows and softens.

Wear didymium glasses the whole time you work in the flame, and keep turning the mandrel so the glass stays even.

Heat the stringer tip and touch it to the bead to place each dot, then melt the dots in flat or leave them raised.

When the shape is done, take it out of the flame slowly and put it straight into a fibre blanket or kiln to cool.

Cool slowly, remove from the mandrel and clean out the bead release from the hole.

Make a round bead first, then plan the heart shape from it.

Dip the mandrel in bead release and let it dry fully as its label directs.

Light the torch, warm the rod end slowly in the edge of the flame, then move it into the hotter part until it glows and softens.

Wear didymium glasses the whole time you work in the flame, and keep turning the mandrel so the glass stays even.

Press the warm bead with a marver or graphite paddle into a triangle, then pinch a small dip in the top to form the heart.

When the shape is done, take it out of the flame slowly and put it straight into a fibre blanket or kiln to cool.

Cool slowly, release from the mandrel and string it on a cord.

Choose a base bead colour plus petal and centre colours.

Dip the mandrel in bead release and let it dry fully as its label directs.

Light the torch, warm the rod end slowly in the edge of the flame, then move it into the hotter part until it glows and softens.

Wear didymium glasses the whole time you work in the flame, and keep turning the mandrel so the glass stays even.

Place five dots in a ring for the petals and one dot in the middle, then melt them in for a flat flower.

When the shape is done, take it out of the flame slowly and put it straight into a fibre blanket or kiln to cool.

Cool slowly, release and clean the hole.

Pick rod colours you want as thin lines for decoration.

Dip the mandrel in bead release and let it dry fully as its label directs.

Light the torch, warm the rod end slowly in the edge of the flame, then move it into the hotter part until it glows and softens.

Wear didymium glasses the whole time you work in the flame, and keep turning the mandrel so the glass stays even.

Heat the end of the rod into a soft gather, take it out of the flame and pull steadily with a second rod or tweezers to stretch it thin.

When the shape is done, take it out of the flame slowly and put it straight into a fibre blanket or kiln to cool.

Snap the cooled stringer into usable lengths and store by colour.

Pick clear and a light blue or white rod.

Dip the mandrel in bead release and let it dry fully as its label directs.

Light the torch, warm the rod end slowly in the edge of the flame, then move it into the hotter part until it glows and softens.

Wear didymium glasses the whole time you work in the flame, and keep turning the mandrel so the glass stays even.

Twist two warm colours together while pulling to make a long spiral, then pull the end to a point.

When the shape is done, take it out of the flame slowly and put it straight into a fibre blanket or kiln to cool.

Form a small loop at the top for hanging and let it cool slowly.

Plan a red cap, a white stem and white dots.

Dip the mandrel in bead release and let it dry fully as its label directs.

Light the torch, warm the rod end slowly in the edge of the flame, then move it into the hotter part until it glows and softens.

Wear didymium glasses the whole time you work in the flame, and keep turning the mandrel so the glass stays even.

Build the stem on the mandrel first, add a domed cap gather on top and press dots into the cap.

When the shape is done, take it out of the flame slowly and put it straight into a fibre blanket or kiln to cool.

Cool slowly, release and clean.

Choose a base colour and a jar of compatible frit.

Dip the mandrel in bead release and let it dry fully as its label directs.

Light the torch, warm the rod end slowly in the edge of the flame, then move it into the hotter part until it glows and softens.

Wear didymium glasses the whole time you work in the flame, and keep turning the mandrel so the glass stays even.

Roll the hot bead in a thin layer of frit, then melt it in smooth or leave it slightly textured.

When the shape is done, take it out of the flame slowly and put it straight into a fibre blanket or kiln to cool.

Cool slowly, release and clean.

Choose frit colours for the body and wings.

Coat the mold with mold primer as its label directs and let it dry completely.

Use glass and frit of only one COE, and wash and dry any sheet glass first.

Set the filled or topped mold level on the kiln shelf.

Fill the primed casting mold evenly with frit, slightly mounded, so it fills as it melts.

Fire with your glass maker's casting or slumping schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

After firing and cooling, pop the casting out and grind any rough edge.

Pick a small jewellery casting mold and two or three frit colours.

Coat the mold with mold primer as its label directs and let it dry completely.

Use glass and frit of only one COE, and wash and dry any sheet glass first.

Set the filled or topped mold level on the kiln shelf.

Fill each cavity with frit, layering colours, and keep the top level.

Fire with your glass maker's casting or slumping schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Cool, release and glue a bail or ring finding on the back.

Choose a multi teardrop mold and colours for several pendants.

Coat the mold with mold primer as its label directs and let it dry completely.

Use glass and frit of only one COE, and wash and dry any sheet glass first.

Set the filled or topped mold level on the kiln shelf.

Fill each teardrop with frit, adding a little clear on top for depth.

Fire with your glass maker's casting or slumping schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Release after cooling, then glue on bails or drill a hole with a diamond bit.

Plan greens and clear frit for a bamboo look.

Coat the mold with mold primer as its label directs and let it dry completely.

Use glass and frit of only one COE, and wash and dry any sheet glass first.

Set the filled or topped mold level on the kiln shelf.

Fill the primed mold fully and evenly, and use a slower firing for the thicker casting.

Fire with your glass maker's casting or slumping schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Cool very slowly, release and use as a tile, coaster or wall piece.

Fuse a two-layer square blank that fits the slumping mold.

Coat the mold with mold primer as its label directs and let it dry completely.

Use glass and frit of only one COE, and wash and dry any sheet glass first.

Set the filled or topped mold level on the kiln shelf.

Centre the blank on the primed slumping mold and fire with a slump schedule.

Fire with your glass maker's casting or slumping schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Check it sits level and smooth any sharp corners.

Fuse a round blank with a bright pattern for the vase mold.

Coat the mold with mold primer as its label directs and let it dry completely.

Use glass and frit of only one COE, and wash and dry any sheet glass first.

Set the filled or topped mold level on the kiln shelf.

Balance the blank on the primed vase mold and fire so it drops into soft folds.

Fire with your glass maker's casting or slumping schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Cool fully; use it for dried flowers or as a decoration.

Fuse a round blank with a simple pattern.

Coat the mold with mold primer as its label directs and let it dry completely.

Use glass and frit of only one COE, and wash and dry any sheet glass first.

Set the filled or topped mold level on the kiln shelf.

Lay the blank over the primed drape mold so it slumps down over the ripples.

Fire with your glass maker's casting or slumping schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Lift off after cooling and smooth the rim.

Cut a blank the size of the texture mold.

Coat the mold with mold primer as its label directs and let it dry completely.

Use glass and frit of only one COE, and wash and dry any sheet glass first.

Set the filled or topped mold level on the kiln shelf.

Place the glass on the primed texture mold and fire so it picks up the wave pattern underneath.

Fire with your glass maker's casting or slumping schedule and let the kiln cool to room temperature before opening.

Cool, lift off and use as a tile, coaster or sun catcher.